Travel log

Day-by-day logs from the trails, written to be read like an ascent — the altitude climbs as you scroll.

3 treks · 16 days on the trail · ~1,390 km, all modes · high point 4,700 m

Five friends posing on an open green pasture under cloud-wrapped hills

Baglung, NepalAugust 2025

Dhorpatan

Five of us, one night bus, and four hours of mud road into the country's only hunting reserve. Ponchos to four thousand meters for a view the cloud kept to itself; horses at dusk, cards in a power cut — and the sky we'd been begging for waited to open over Pokhara instead.

5 days · ↑ 4,000 m

The lodges of Kyanjin Gompa in pre-dawn light with snow peaks behind

Rasuwa, NepalMarch 2025

Langtang–Gosaikunda

Four of us took a Sumo north and walked into a winter circuit with two summits: Kyanjin Ri at 4,700 meters above the rebuilt Langtang valley, then — three of us by then — Shiva's half-frozen lake at 4,380. Rhododendrons in the morning, snowfall by evening, tea toasted at the shoreline — and one sting in the tail on the bus home.

7 days · ↑ 4,700 m

A still lake mirroring the green rocky hills of the basin

Sindhupalchok, NepalAugust 2024

Panch Pokhari

Four of us, three motorbikes, and a road the landslide had eaten before we'd walked a single step. Ten hours of stone stairs into fog, one freezing dip borrowed from the pilgrims — and forty minutes when all five lakes came out. My first trek, told the way I remember it.

4 days · ↑ 4,100 m